Carlow's Old Inns, Churches, Gaol and Castle.
By Douglas. M.C
Source:
CARLOVIANA November 1951. Vol 1. No. 4. Pages 172 – 178. and
1913 Carlow Feis programme (online)
An Interesting Survey
The following article was contributed to the Carlow Feis programme
of 1920 by the late M, C. Douglas, Carlow, and was read to the Old
Carlow Society by B. O'Neill, Esq,, M.Sc.:—
The
town of Carlow is pleasantly situated on the river Barrow. It makes
for a very cheerful appearance at a distance, from the number of
white houses scattered up and down in its neighbourhood; nor is the
traveller disappointed when he enters it, there being a cleanness
and neatness in the streets superior to most towns in the kingdom."
So runs the description given in "The Post-Chaise Companion, or
Travellers Directory through Ireland," published in 1786, the
description still holds good
— save, perhaps, as to the white houses. The cleanness and neatness
of the streets are still characteristic of the town; thanks to our
Urban Council.
Its ancient name, Catherlough, some say, means "the fort on the
lake." in allusion to the castle which stood as an eminence,
surrounded by a sheet of water, but Dr. Joyce gives the meaning as
the "quadruple lake, “referring to a tradition that the Barrow
anciently formed four lakes here, and that the Irish name, being
pronounced Gather-lough, was easily softened down to the present
name.
From Its position on the border of the pale, it was a place of
importance from a military point of view; hence it became the scene
of many a death struggle. For the possession of it the native
chieftain and invading Norman contended. Its streets have echoed, In
turn, with the martial tread of Puritan and Royalist.
Town walls?
Doubt has been expressed as to Carlow having ever been a walled
town, but there is a record that Lionel. Duke of Clarence- expended
a sum of
£500 in building the town walls. There are also frequent references
in old deeds to the town gates, of which there were evidently four,
Carlow Gate stood near
the present Club House Hotel (also known as St Brigid's
Nursing Home);
Dublin Gate was on the
Dublin Road, near the Convent of Mercy (also known as Mail
Coach Hotel) ;
Tullow Gate was in
Tullow Street at the present RIC, Barracks, and The
Castle Gate stood near
where Castle Street and Dublin Street meet The course of the town
walls cannot be traced with any certainty: there is little doubt,
however, that one of the walls ran down the Western side of Dublin
Street. In making room for the present Provincial Bank, portion of
the wall was found incorporated with one of the old houses. Part of
one of the walls was also discovered, several years ago, in the
Potato Market, when improvements were being made in the
neighbourhood of the Jail. However, having probably been looked on
as of little use for the purposes of defence, they were neglected,
and allowed to fall into decay.
Mediaeval Walls of Carlow
and
Carlow Hotels & Inns will povide
more information on the Carlow Wall.
The two principal streets, Dublin Street and Tullow Street, follow,
no doubt, their original direction, and retain also their original
names. Dublin Street formerly took in part of what is now Burrin
Street. The names of other streets have changed; some lanes and
by-streets have disappeared. Browne Street was formerly
"Hunt Street," as may be
seen from a stone on the gable of the Commercial Club. Centaur
Street, which was widened about sixty years- ago, bore the quaint
name of
“Labour-in-vain-Lane," from the sign borne by a tavern in the
street representing a person trying to wash a blackman white.
Bridewell Lane so called because it led to the
prison, formerly bore the name of “Somer's
Lane,” from an owner of property in it. College Street was
known as “Mass House Lane."
Old Stage Coach
In the days of the Stage Coach, the route from Kilkenny to Dublin
was through Dublin Street, in which the Coach Office was situated.
Horses were changed at "The
Green Dragon" on the Kilkenny Road and at
"The Blue Bell" opposite
the County Infirmary, on the Dublin road. Dublin Street was studded
with inns, only one of which, however, survives as a hotel –
“The Royal Arms,"
formerly "The King's Arms,"
The houses, Nos. 16 and 17—now occupied by Mrs. McElwee and Mr.
Joseph Cunningham—formed one house known as
"The Globe Inn”. It was
probably the principal Inn of the town in the 17th century. In old
deeds it is styled "a stone house," to distinguish it from the
thatched houses. In 1699 it was evidently re-modeled; a stone tablet
on the front of the house bears in relief —
-
W
-
J
R.
-
1699.
The date is that of the renovation of the house; the letters are the
initials of the then occupants. Jonathan and Ruth Watson; the
gentleman, in accordance with the chivalrous usage of the time,
joining the initial of his wife's Christian name with that of his
own.
There is a tradition that here King William III lodged, and from it
wrote one of his despatches after the battle of the Boyne. "The
Bear Inn" on the site of the house now occupied by Mr. McGaul.
”The Blackamoor's Head Inn"
and "The Crown and Sceptre"
are represented by the houses owned by Mrs. Duggan. The house
occupied by Mr. D. J. McGrath stands upon the site of the old
”Red Cow Inn”.
In Burrin Street, the house which the late Mr. H. Burke occupied,
was "The George Inn"—a
few years ago it was destroyed by fire. There was also
"The Yellow Lyon," which
some of my readers may remember as having been revived for a short
time. It is now a private dwelling.
"The Sheaf Inn" was,
some years ago, occupied by the late Mr. Richard Tennant as a
posting establishment. Here, during the throes of the General
Election, Dan O'Connell had his Committee rooms. The yard and
out-offices are used by the Messrs. Slocock, as auxiliaries to their
stables. In other parts' of the town there stood the
"Black Anchor," and
"The White Horse." as
well as several smaller inns. The opening of the Railway from Dublin
to Kilkenny gradually diminished the number of travellers by road,
and the Stage Coach ceased to run. Some still remember the remains
of the last of the Carlow coaches, "The Fair Traveller, falling to
pieces in a yard in Dublin Street.
The Court House
The present Court House, which is an ornament to the town, with its
portico modelled after the Acropolls at Athene, was erected over 80
years ago. The older Court House is now the "Deighton Memorial Hall"
in Burrin Street. It was erected in 1800 on the site of a former
Sessions House. It had two wings forming, respectively, the Crown
Court and the Record Court. The Crown Court wing was taken down
several years ago, when Water Lane was being widened. The stocks
stood in front, under the windows of the Record Court.
In 1800, the building being unfinished, the Sheriff was obliged to
obtain the loan of the Friends' Meeting House, in
Tullow St. to hold
the Assizes. Here was tried, and sentenced to death, for forgery and
robbery of His Majesty's mall, Arthur Wallace, postmaster of Carlow.
He kept an apothecary's shop, as well as the Post Office, in the
house now No. 4 Dublin Street.
The old gaol stood at the upper end of Bridewell Lane, where were
confined many of the prisoners in 1798; amongst the rest the
unfortunate Sir Edward Crosbie, who was executed in June of that
year. Here also Arthur Wallace was confined. On 16th August, 1800,
he was brought in a sedan chair to the place of execution, which
then stood in Barrack Street, nearly opposite the military barracks,
and overlooking some property which Wallace then owned in Little
Barrack Street. This latter street at the time, and since, was known
as "Gallipot," probably in allusion to Wallace's occupation as an
apothecary.
When the newer gaol was erected, the old gaol became, in turn, a
hospital and a corn mill. It is now used as a corn store by Mr. Fred
Thompson.
The extensive prison premises, which superseded the old Gaol, were
completed in 1800, and, for upwards of ninety years, served to keep
in watch and ward offenders against the law. On the scaffold over
the entrance, nine persons, in all, were executed. Through changes
in the prison arrangements of the Government, the gaol was disused,
and, in 1897, fell under the Auctioneer's hammer to the bid of Mr.
Michael Molloy. Some of the buildings were levelled, and the
materials used for building purposes. Ultimately it became the
property of Messrs. Thomas Thompson and Son, whose extensive work
now occupies it. The groaning of the treadmill has given place to
the busy hum of industry, and what had been know as "Carlow Gaol,"
is now "Hanover Works."
Monastic Church
The late Rev. J. F. Shearman, in "Loca Patriciana," states that St.
Comghall, who lived in the 6th century, established a monastic
Church in Carlow on the site given him by "Cormac of Hy Bairrche."
In old "Itineraries” there is reference to the ruins of a very fine
Abbey in Carlow, This Abbey stood on Castle Hill, and must have been
of some considerable size, for the compiler of "The Poet Chase
Champion," etc.. in 1786, states that near the Abbey" is a small
Protestant Church." The Abbey was known as St. Mary's Abbey." Could
it have been on the site of St. Comghall's Church? Not a vestige of
the building now remains. The ruthless hand of the vandal, and the
march of civilisation which is, in many cases, the horror of the
antiquary, have removed every trace, save the burial ground, which
extended to near Graigue Bridge. The lowering of the "hill," the
widening of the streets, and the erection of houses, have left but a
hillock on which a few graves remain, and portion of one old altar
tomb.
Rev. J. F, Shearman mentions also that, before St. Comghall erected
his church, Carlow was the residence of a recluse named Croine Beg,
daughter of Sedna, a descendant of Niall of the Nine Hostages. Her
memory was kept alive in the town; for a narrow lane that led from
Church Street towards the quay, by Mr. McDonnell's wall in Hay
Market, bore for centuries the name of
"Templeroney Lane,"
afterwards changed to "Fairy
Lane." The houses having been levelled in that locality to make
way for the present Hay Market, the identity of the old lane was
lost.
The adjoining Parish Council was built in 1731, on the site of a
still older church, which dated probably from the beginning of the
17th century. The steeple was of a rather ugly appearance,
surmounted by a stone wall. It is shown in the engraving of Carlow
Castle, taken from Grose's Antiquities in 1792., reproduced in this
Programme. Sir Wm. Wilde, in his memoir of Swift, says that it was
in connection with this church the witty Dean uttered his famous
couplet;—
-
"High church, low steeple.
-
Poor town, proud people."
Nearly 80 years ago the old steeple was pulled down, and replaced by
the present steeple, which, from its very graceful proportions, is
greatly admired.
The Cathedral in College Street, which owes its erection to Dr,
Doyle —the great J.K.L.—was commenced in 1828 and completed in 1833.
It took the place of the previous church, erected by Dean Staunton
in 1787. The late Dr. Comerford, in his Collections, mentions that
the fine stone gateway now forming the entrance to the Convent of
Mercy, formerly stood at this church; it bears the initials of Dr.
Staunton, H.S.,' and the date 1792, which probably indicates the
time of the completion of the church. The writer has heard that the
Cathedral was built over the older church that the latter was used
for the purpose of worship, while the Cathedral was being erected
and that it was not taken down until the new building had been
completed.
The Cathedral, with its fine tower, 151ft, in height, is an ornament
to the town, and one of the first places to be visited by strangers,
not only on account of its architectural attractions, but as being
associated with the memory of Dr. Doyle, who rests within its walls,
and contains the statue of the Bishop by the famous sculptor, Hogan.
It is said that Cobden, the architect, had intended a pointed
steeple as part of the design for the Cathedral, but Dr. Doyle
altered the design, and chose the tower.
Bridges.
For forty years no bridge existed, at Carlow, over the Barrow, or
the Burrin. Ferries were used instead. However, it is recorded that,
in 1569, the foundations of the bridge in Carlow were laid by Sir
Henry Sydney. This was evidently the present Graigue Bridge. The
bridge was widened in 1815, and named after the victor of
Waterloo—"Wellington Bridge." In passing under the bridge, one can
still trace, on the northern side, the extent of the widening.
Before the embanking of the Barrow by the "Barrow Navigation
Company,'' the river spread over a wide area of the low-lying land
in the neighbourhood of the town, and the ferries were still used.
The position of two, at least, are located in the name of
"North Cot Lane” which
is the present Cox's Lane; and
"South Cot Lane," the
lower part of Centaur Street. The Barrow and Burrin were Joined at
one time in the present Coal Market, and, no doubt, helped to form
the fosse of the Castle. That part of the town was swampy, and
occasionally, in digging, black mud mingled with leaves and reeds,
is turned up. The late Mr. James Ryan, of Coal Market, told the
writer that, when rebuilding his house, in sinking the foundations,
he discovered the remains of a boat, which, however, he was unable
to remove. In old deeds that locality is styled "the Moneen," or
little bog.
Not any bridge appears to have been made over the Burrin—at least of
a permanent nature—until the reign of Charles II,, when we are told
that one Thomas Crutchley, a miller, contracted with the town and
county for the building of a large stone bridge to carry houses on
each side, over the river Burrin. The remains of this old bridge
were taken down in 1827, and a metal bridge constructed. This, in
turn, gave place to the present, much wider bridge.
The Castle.
From Burrin bridge may be obtained a distant view of the old Castle,
with which is bound up with much of the ancient history of the town.
The castle was built apparently, sometime in the 12th century; by
whom it was erected is a matter of dispute. It has been ascribed in
turn to King John, Hugh de Lacy, and to William Marshall, Earl of
Pembroke—most probably the last-named was its founder. So much has
been written on the subject, and on the history of the castle, that
the scope of this paper would not permit of more than bare allusions
to events connected with it.
The native Irish who occupied the other side of the Barrow
occasionally gave great trouble to the English settlers in Carlow
and the castle was erected to protect the town. It was originally a
square building with- a tower at each angle. The length of each
side, from the extremity of one tower to that of another, was 105
feet. Its height was about 65 feet It was evidently a building of
great strength. From Its commanding position it was of great
strategic importance. It served also as a prison and a court of
Justice. On the authority of Mr. Mills, Deputy Keeper of the
Records.
Dublin, it is stated that, adjoining the castle, there was
a great hall which was roofed with wooden shingles made in the wood
of Dunleckney. Timber, boards, and laths were, from time to time,
brought from Dunleckney, Tullow and Athy for the repairs of the hall
and other portions of the castle, the kitchen, and the prison. The
"Exchequer House" was one of the buildings of the castle; it was
probably one of the towers, the lower part of which formed the
Treasurer's office and court, while on the upper floor were
preserved the treasure of money and records, which were deposited in
chests of wood, secured with iron bands. Space would not permit
dealing with the several sieges of the castle, but the siege that
first seriously affected the structure was in 1647, when it
surrendered to Preston, the General of the Army of The
Confederation.
The siege that did most damage was that under Ireton in 1650.
Letters, about exchange of prisoners, and other matters, passed
between Ireton and Captain Bellew, who commanded the castle. Active
hostilities were suspended for some time; the garrison being very
strong; Ireton was slow to commence the attack. Emboldened, however,
by news of the successes of the parliamentary forces in England, he
forwarded to Bellew a summons to surrender, couched in courteous,
but decided language. Bellew asked for three days' respite, which
was granted, but Ireton, in the meantime, withdrew, leaving Sir
Hardress Waller to carry on the siege. At the end of the three days,
the Governor declined to surrender. Waller tried to starve out the
garrison, but found it was supplied with provisions from the
opposite side of the river, where, at the, foot of the bridge, there
stood a "little castle." We are not told how the provisions were
conveyed, to the garrison by its friends, while the castle was so
closely invested, but there is a tradition of a subterranean
passage, and this was probably the means of communication. This
“little castle" occupied the site of the house on the Queen's County
side of the bridge, which had been used for a time as a convent for
the Poor Clares, and had been for years previously occupied by the
late Mr. Edward Clarke, now occupied by Mr. Foley.
Waller resolved to cross the river, and to employ the principal part
of his forces on the other side, but how to secure communication
between the two parts of his army, when thus divided, was the
difficulty, not having any boats. The bridge was impassable, and the
river could not be forded. He devised a novel plan. He found a
little lower down the river—probably at the place on the Kilkenny
road now called "The Slip," that the river there
was not so deep, His soldiers gathered a great quantity of large
reeds, which grew plentifully about there, and tied them In bundles.
Then two cables were fixed to one bank, and at a distance of 8 or 10
yards from each other, were stretched across the river to the
opposite bank. To these, the bundles of reeds were tied. On top he
piled wattles until he had made a ford sufficient to enable troops
of horse and companies of infantry to cross. He was thus able to
take "the little castle" on the Western side of the bridge, thereby
cutting off supplies from the garrison. Waller brought his cannon up
the "Fruit Hill road"
and from a field there, still known as Cromwell's field, battered
the castle to such an extent that the Governor was obliged to
surrender. After this, Carlow Castle was neglected. The roof was
stripped, and the oak rafters were used, it is said, in building
houses in Dublin Street and Castle Street.
The courtyard became the playground for children, Several years ago,
an old man told the writer that, as a boy, he often played in and
around on the top of the walls, which were then accessible by the
stairs, and frequently amused himself, with other boys, in a sandpit
near the castle. One day, when the boys were throwing each other
into the sandpit, they threw down a lot of sand, and a large chest
tumbled out. Some soldiers who were playing pitch and toss in the
courtyard, saw it, drove the boys away, and apparently, with
difficulty, carried off the chest: This was probably one of the
chests alluded to above, and contained either records or treasure.
It remained, however, for one of these utilitarians, who can see
little beauty in anything unless it be a source of pecuniary profit,
to demolish that which had borne the shock of battle, and was
braving the assaults of time.
Decay.
In 1814, a Doctor Middleton, who lived in Hanover House, Burrin
Street, in which he had a private lunatic asylum, obtained a grant
of the old castle from the Government, for the purpose of converting
it into an asylum. To enlarge the interior he tried to reduce the
thickness of the walls. Pickaxe and crowbar were aided by gun
powder, with the result that the walls and foundations were
weakened, and one Sunday morning, while fortunately the people of
the neighbourhood were at their places of worship, two towers and
three curtain walls fell The shock was felt throughout the district.
Some of the congregation of the parish church, rushed out, thinking
it was an earthquake. A trader, standing at his door in Tullow St.,
hearing the noise ran down just in time to see the third wall
falling. The huge mass swayed backwards and forwards for a few
seconds, as if uncertain in which direction to fall, and, at length,
fell inwards thereby saving some cabins adjoining, from being
demolished. Providentially no human life was lost. For some time the
debris lay forming a huge mound. Several houses in the neighbourhood
were built of stones.
-
Thou grand old ruin tottering to decay,
-
Around thy turrets verdant ivy creeps
-
Refuge of night birds from the glare of day.
-
‘Tis sad to view thee in dying glory
-
And contemplate at silent hour, thy dark eventful story.
What remains of the castle still tells of its former majesty.
What was the old sandpit is now a most tastefully arranged
garden belonging to Mr. Michael Governey, Chairman of the Urban
Council, who courteously permits visitors to see the ruins.
Those who wish to study the history of the castle are referred
to an exceedingly interesting and exhaustive article, by Lord
Walter Fitzgerald, in Journal of the Kildare Archaeological
Society, for 1910. There are other spots of interest in the town
which have had to be passed by, but if the writer of this hasty
sketch has assisted in throwing a slender bridge over the gulf
of time, and increasing the interest in the town of Carlow, he
is gratified.
-
“We still recall those scenes of vanished days,
-
That left faint traces of joys or woes behind,
-
Ere firm resolve the course of manhood’s life defined.”
Transcribed by Michael Brennan 2017.
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